- 1 Related Web Pages
- 2 Related Videos
- 3 Questions and Answers
- 3.1 Question on sizing and creating saddle rings
- 3.2 How Do You Calculate Ring Sizes for Square Bands?
- 3.3 How to Get Flush Edges on a Ring Shank for Soldering
- 3.4 Soldering ring shanks, holding rings together, Argentium.
- 3.5 How to make a two layered ring band, apply an overlay or add a strip to the outside of a ring shank.
Related Web Pages
- Adjustable Ring Size Chart
- Adjustable Ring Shank Patterns
- Mandrel Holders
- Miter Cutting Vise and Jig
- Q&A: Rings
- Q&A: Stone Setting: Cabochons and Faceted Stones
- Ring Blank Chart
- Ring, Bracelet and Bezel Mandrels
- Saddle Ring Pattern
- Stones and Stone Setting
- Texturing Metal
- Flat Square Edges on Metal
- How to Make a Domed Ring: Parts One, Two and Three
- How to Make a Ring: Parts One, Two and Three
- Stone Setting: Creating a Frame Setting for Cabochons. Part One, Part Two
- How to Resize a Ring
- My Craftsy Video: Prong Settings from Start to Finish – Watch the Trailer Here!
Questions and Answers
Question on sizing and creating saddle rings
“I have SUCH a difficult time getting the sizing correct. In any event, I was wondering if you had any tips on working with saddle rings. Is there a specific template to follow for them where I could get a feel for how they’re constructed? Or is it more just whatever I design and freeform it? Again, sizing is so important and I hate wasting materials. Inevitably, if I make it in copper, it’s gorgeous and perfect. LOL. See attached image for a reference of what I’m talking about.”
Those long, wide rings are the hardest to size. There is way more finger to accommodate and more metal to make adjustments for. Can you make your rings with an open shank? I find that I can achieve 3 different half sizes and they are adjustable for days when fingers are swollen – especially common with women. Unfortunately, the finger is not all one size. You might have to get a variety of measurements: from where the ring fits on its farthest end and what size it fits at its closest end. My vote is for an adjustable shank. At least, that’s what I’d do!
As far as patterns for the ring: a. You can check out my Saddle Ring Patterns page or b. you can buy a cheap saddle ring, hammer it flat, then mark out the pattern. Scan it to a photo editing program like Photoshop or Pixlr Editor and make a few in different sizes by enlarging the image. Make samples out of tin or roofing flashing to check how they look and feel before committing to your final metal. Don’t forget to account for the difference in metal thickness between the sample and your final metal. A .25 mm difference in thickness can make a ring not the right size.
A saddle ring might also be created from creating a large disc and rolling in through the rolling mill until it is an oval. Haven’t tried that one yet. Back to Table of Contents
How Do You Calculate Ring Sizes for Square Bands?
“Do you know how to calculate ring sizes for square bands?
I have the Houser & Miller ring guide for rounds….but the square sizing is another animal!!
Is there a square ring chart?”
How to Get Flush Edges on a Ring Shank for Soldering
I use the mitre vise but there always seems to be a round part which stops the seam from being flush. Can you provide any advice? A video would be great I haven’t seen one yet.
Also, what kind of files should be used and what is the largest gap you can have in the join but still have a presentable seam.
I just taught a class of beginners how to solder ring shanks. Everyone had a hard time. I have found that the thinner the shank, the easier it is. I have a webpage on how to use the miter cutting vise and jig. On that page are links to two videos that might help, on the top of the page: especially the video: Flat Square Edges on Metal. I also have a video called: “How to Make a Domed Ring” that goes over soldering a ring shank.
Soldering ring shanks, holding rings together, Argentium.
“This was the first time I have brazed Argentium. I practiced on copper ground wire beforehand and then learned that argentium is not like copper. Also, I found that, Argentium solder is not like industrial 5% – 15% silver solder. So, I ended up with some porosity in the joint, after the argentium decided to warp open about 0.020, and I just decided to fill it up with solder. Next time I will anneal the piece before soldering. Do you wire joints like this? Or use pliers? In the industrial metalworking industry, if the metal was copper or brass, we would just put a big welding clamp on it to keep it closed.
I also might have used a little too much heat – still getting used to the new torch I have, which is oxy-propane instead of oxy-acetylene. I did not realize the flame cone is different on oxy-propane.”
How to make a two layered ring band, apply an overlay or add a strip to the outside of a ring shank.
Are you talking about this ring? You can do it both ways but, I believe for this ring, that I soldered the decorative band first and then formed the ring shank. You can use a ring bender, like this one from Pepe Tools, a mandrel and a non-marring mallet or bending pliers to bend the shank. To make life easier, make sure it is annealed, before bending and often if it requires further adjusting!
- Create base shank, solder shank ends together.
- Next: figure out, approximately, how much metal you’ll need for the outer ring. Be generous is your measurements and allow extra. Use wire or other method to determine how much you’ll need (see link to my FB video below).
- Flux and apply solder pallions to the strip.
- Solder. If you can, spread the solder over the metal with a solder pick. Your goal is to not have lumpy solder – if possible.
- Pickle and then sand off any high areas of solder.
- Treat the overlay ring like a bezel – wrap the wire around the ring shank tightly, mark where the two ends overlap, cut, square edges of ring shank, and check fit.
- Once you get a tight fit, slide the band over the inner band. It should be difficult to get on and you might need a tap from a mallet. It should be tight because the band has additional thickness because of the solder. Once the solder flows, the shank will have less thickness and could be too big.