- Adjustable Ring Shank Pattern
- Basic Bail Patterns
- DIY Bench Pin
- End Caps – Crimp style. Aka: Fold-over Crimps
- Fancy Bail Patterns
- Fold-over Bail Pattern
- Pin Back or Brooch Back Patterns – Jewelry Making
- Saddle Ring Patterns – includes a video of how I designed the ring pattern and instructions
- Whale’s Tail Pendant Pattern
- Wire Clasp Patterns
Information on attaching and adjusting patterns
- I cut closely to the patterns to allow me to see the metal beneath the pattern. This allows for a more efficient use of the metal and creates less waste.
- I glue my patterns to the metal. First, I sand the area with 400g wet-dry sand paper. This removes dirt and also gives the glue a little “tooth” to hold onto. I either print my patterns on Avery Shipping Labels (full sheets) or use a glue stick.
- After sawing, I soak the pattern and metal in water (for the glue stick method) or with the Avery method, I try to pry off the label. If stuck, I soak off the paper and either use a green scrubby: Scotch Brite Heavy Duty Scouring Pads and soapy water or employ a little “Goo Gone” or “Oops“.
- I also like to glue two sheets of metal together to be able to get two pieces from one sawing session. I use superglue for this process.
- To separate the sheets of metal, after sawing and sanding (you can do that too, while they are glued together! Yeah!), I use my torch to burn off the super glue and to release the bond. There are NASTY FUMES produced so, you need great ventilation – if you can smell it, it’s not working!
Another way to remove the superglue is to soak the pieces in Acetone. Once again, VENTILATION!
- The patterns can be resized with a photo editing software app like Photoshop or Pixlr Editor. Please see my webpage: Photo Editing Software for some of the programs available – some even free!
- Also, if you’d like to make your own patterns, check out my video: Creating Patterns For Jewelry Design.